IN TRANSIT: Unekual's Guide to Tokyo

Why is an aging shopping centre known for anime merch some half an hour from downtown Tokyo at the top of our list? Well, among Nakano Broadway’s many sub-culture merchants, a new type of store has gradually emerged – that of the vintage watch specialist.

The unexpected combination makes for a watch shopping experience unlike any other, with rare, ‘Holy Trinity’ references lining the display windows – right next to otaku-centric vendors and, amusingly, even the odd sex shop. Because why not, right? 

While it’s worth exploring every corner of this weird and wonderful setting, readers who wish to keep to an efficient schedule will find the best vintage watch selection at places like Jackroad and Betty, while Firekids specialises in Japanese gems from the likes of Grand Seiko, Seiko, and Citizen

Much as we would have loved to include a recommendation for a ryokan here (a kind of traditional Japanese inn) such accommodations are best experienced outside the hustle and bustle of a huge metropolis such as Tokyo.

The next best thing might just be Aman Tokyo, whose minimal ultra-modern rooms take the aforementioned ryokan as inspiration. Thanks to its setting atop the famed urban Otemachi Forest, you’re separated from the din of unwanted metropolitan noise. 

The low-slung furniture and traditional tatami floor coverings are all there, yet with the kind of finishings you’d expect from the hotel industry’s most influential operator of global luxury resorts. Any place that calls itself ryokan-inspired, however, also needs to present excellent spa facilities, and on that front, Aman overdelivers. Think a multi-storey bathing, massage, steam, and sauna facilities; along with what is decisively one of the biggest wellness centres of any international hotel chain in Tokyo. 

You’re naturally not short of dining options either, with Aman Tokyo’s range covering both casual and fine flavours, headlined by the Musashi omakase experience. Fun fact: all of the sushi here is prepared exclusively with rice sourced from the hotel’s own farmland in Yamanashi.

Looking through a watch lover’s lens, there’s no better place to experience the ultra-polished ‘Ginza style’ of mixology than Star Bar. Enthusiasts may have heard of their many “Cocktail Time” collaborations with Seiko, where dials are matched to a specific beverage. Despite its ornate ceiling and leather-clad surfaces, you reach the door by descending down a dimly lit staircase suggestive of a speakeasy (don’t worry: there’s relatively obvious signage at ground level). 

Wondering what the hot-ticket menu item is? Well, there isn’t one: standard operating procedure for traditional Japanese bars. Somewhat oxymoronically, owner-operator Hisashi Kishi prides himself on the quality of Star Bar’s ice as much as he does the uniqueness of its beverages. The aptly named ‘ninja ice’ is practically invisible in the glass, and keeps your drink cool while melting so slowly that it never dilutes the flavours that Hisashi-san and his team have concocted.

If anything, Star Bar’s low-key specialty is in fact whisky (which makes a lot of sense, especially considering the decor) so keep that in mind when chatting with one of the bowtie-and-suspender-wearing bartenders, who will help you hone in on your perfect drink from plenty of original recipes alongside perfected classics.

With Nakano Broadway getting our honorary mention for ‘best vintage watch destination’, lovers of contemporary releases can’t conclude their visit to Tokyo without exploring the centrally located Wako department store and its iconic Seiko clock tower. Despite the name emblazoned on its rooftop, Wako offers a lot more than just Seiko Corp-branded products. (Check out our Journal Editor Randy’s firsthand account of Wako Ginza to learn more about the store’s signature experiences and secrets.) 

Make sure you allow the time to try on the few boutique-exclusive watches from Grand Seiko and Credor; and after ruing the fact that you decided buying all of them would be overly indulgent, indulge all the same with Wako’s robust selection of Swiss marques including Breguet, Piaget, and JLC. 

The many floors of Wako Ginza also offer a selection of homewares, luxury leather goods, jewellery, menswear, and even cuisine. Y’know – just in case you’re in need of thoughtful gifts for friends and family at home.

With Tokyo continuing its reign as the city globally with the single highest concentration of Michelin-starred restaurants (i.e. 160 for the 2026 Guide), there is no shortage of options – but don’t let yourself be limited by this fine dining-centric system.

With a mere eight covers each day, Kappou Ryu serves an omakase-style tasting menu prepared by just two people, one of whom is Head Chef Otsuka Takahiro.  

The ultra-minimal decor is centred around a large flower arrangement sitting behind the chef, but the bare concrete walls and simply stained wooden counters don’t contribute at all to a sense of unwelcomeness – quite the opposite, in fact. Despite the language barrier, the two chefs cut through any air of pretentiousness that often besieges places like this with warm smiles and expert deployment of your favourite translation app.

Such excellent personal service notwithstanding, the shining highlights like perfectly grilled beef tongue or indulgent taizuke (fileted sea bream) make Kappou Ryu into a must-visit for serious eaters. Ask nicely and Chef Otsuka may even turn some of the aforementioned taizuke into rice balls (onigiri) for you to take home at the conclusion of your meal.